Home Security System Component Layout

If you are

• A new homeowner trying to locate and identify components of your home security system
• A potential customer who wants to be well informed before dealing with an alarm company
• A do-it-yourselfer evaluating scenarios and seeking insight on the scope of your project
• Anyone who wants to gain a basic knowledge of alarm system components

then you've come to the right place!

Below you will find three floor plans of the same typical single story ranch home to the left.  As you move down the page from one floor plan to the next, the security system installations become more thorough.  At the same time, the explanations and descriptions of the major components become more complete and somewhat more technical.
Place your Mouse Pointer over the symbols on the floor plans to view the home security system component represented by that symbol, along with a brief description.  Placing your Mouse Pointer on the image of the component will identify manufacturer and model number.

Components And Layout Of A Basic Home Security System

The basic home security system shown above is similar to some of the "free" or low priced alarm systems that are offered as an incentive to commit to longer term monitoring agreements.
Typically this basic system includes a control panel, keypad, transformer, standby battery, RJ31X, motion detector, siren and contacts for the front and back doors. Note that our example home required two additional contacts on the patio French doors. While these systems can be hardwired, wireless or a combination thereof (hybrid), all of our examples are all hardwired.
The control panel has been centrally located in the hall closet providing easy access and short wire runs to 120V AC for the low voltage transformer and the Telco Dmarc (telephone company service) for off-site alarm monitoring. Basements and utility/mechanical rooms are also common locations for the control panel.
The single keypad is conveniently located just inside the kitchen/garage door. The motion detector is strategically positioned to provide coverage for the kitchen and dining areas, living room and segments of the hall and foyer.
In this case, the low voltage transformer that supplies power to the system is located in the closet along with the control panel. While generally located in close proximity to the control, it can be located in a non-switched receptacle anywhere on the premises.
The RJ31X provides a means of quickly disconnecting the alarm system from the telephone line without interrupting service to the house phones and is required by FCC Regulations. The RJ31X is usually found in or near the metal enclosure housing the control.
Considering that a recent study concluded that approximately fifty-five percent of residential burglary points of entry were through front and back doors (see: Burglary Statistics), this system does, at least, provide a very basic level of protection.
That said, it should be noted that this basic home security system does not provide contacts on any of the home's windows, leaving the bedroom areas of the home unprotected as well as the garage. This deficiency will be addressed in the "Typical" home security system installation below.

Components And Layout Of A Typical Home Security System

The floor plan above illustrates security system component selection and placement for what might be called a Typical home security system. It is immediately apparent that the contact deficiency suffered by the basic alarm system has been corrected. This system has magnetic contacts installed on ALL of the home's doors and windows.
THE PERIMETER IS THE FIRST LINE OF DEFENSE. Approximately ninety percent of all break-ins occur through perimeter openings (doors, windows, skylights, etc). These openings should be protected so an intrusion attempt is detected BEFORE the intruder has gained access to your home. A motion detector will detect an intruder only after they are ALREADY INSIDE your home and these devices are generally considered a backup for perimeter protection.
The Master Bedroom keypad is more than a convenience; it is an enhancement to personal security. This keypad's Emergency Keys (Panic, Fire and Medical) are within easy reach from the bedroom areas. Additionally, if the alarm should sound in the middle of the night, it isn't necessary to go all the way to the kitchen/garage door keypad to check to see which zone was violated and/or silence the alarm siren.
Like the basic system, this typical alarm system could be hardwired, wireless or a hybrid.

Typical Home Security System With Enhancements

* Due to limitations imposed by image size and the increased number of component symbols, the RJ31X symbol has been omitted on this floor plan for the sake of clarity. The device IS INSTALLED as required by FCC Regulations.

The above floor plan incorporates a number of enhancements to the Typical home security system installation:

• A contact is installed on the overhead garage door and defined in system programming as a Non-Alarm Zone to remind the occupants if the door has been left open.
• The control panel has been installed in the master bedroom closet, a common location in many parts of the country that may provide additional security for the equipment.
• Glass break detectors (considered perimeter protection) have been installed to address the possibility of an intruder entering through a broken out glass area instead of actually opening the window or door.
• The exterior siren in attic over the garage will attract the attention of neighbors and/or passersby.
• Wireless (cellular) backup communications provides communications with monitoring facilities in the event of landline phone service interruption.

The above enhancements to our Typical home security system example represent only a few of the available options and are by no means all-inclusive. What you find on your system or what you decide to have installed on your system will vary. Component selection for a home security system and the placement of those devices is largely dictated by what is to be protected and the level of protection desired.
If you would like to learn more about home security system components, consult the forums list of Home Security Alarm General FAQ's
If you are considering a Do-It-Yourself home security system installation, please see the following Home Security Alarm General FAQ: Can I install a home security system myself?

DISCLAIMER

This article is for reference purposes only and is NOT intended as a tutorial on home security system design. The layout illustrations are examples only and the component layouts thereon may not be suitable for your home. Consult with a professional installer from an alarm company in your area to determine what is applicable to your home and meets your specific needs.


The above article is best viewed with Java Script enabled browsers. For the benefit of those whose browsers do not support the pop-up tool tips on the above floor plans, the basic home security system components are described below.

CONTROL PANEL

To the left is a typical metal enclosure (can) housing the control circuit board and alarm system standby battery.
The terms "control panel", "control", "panel" and "board" all refer to the printed circuit board that is, in essence, the computer "brains" of the alarm system.
The system standby battery (connected to the circuit board by red and black wires) maintains system operation during brief power outages.These batteries have a limited life expectancy and must be replaced every 3 - 5 years (sooner if system indicates Battery Trouble).
For additional information see the following FAQ: Where should I install the control panel for my alarm system?

Image by diyalarmforum.com. All rights reserved

KEYPAD

A keypad is the user interface with the alarm system.
The LED keypad pictured on the left consists of a small keyboard, a piezo electric buzzer and LED indicator lights.
The keypad is used for entering data into the system for purposes of controlling and/or programming and to display system status information.
See FAQ: What's the difference between a Control Panel and a Keypad ?

Image courtesy of Digital Security Controls Ltd. (DSC)

LOW VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER

The low voltage transformer is the primary power source for the alarm system. It plugs into a 120V AC receptacle and is usually secured to the receptacle by a screw.
While often located at a receptacle near the control, it can be located anywhere on the premises.
Although the transformer supplies power to the system, it is not a power supply. Referring to it by its correct name can avoid confusion.
For suggestions on where to look for your transformer, see the following FAQ: How do I find my low voltage transformer?

Image courtesy of Digital Security Controls Ltd. (DSC)

AUDIBLE DEVICE

The siren on the left is an example of a typical interior audible device.
It alerts dwelling occupants to an alarm condition or a change in status of the alarm system by emitting loud, high-pitched steady tones, warbling tones or a combination thereof.
Bells, buzzers and horns have all been employed in this application in the past; however, speakers and sirens are by far the most common audible devices utilized in today's residential installations.
Want to learn more about speakers and sirens? See FAQ: What is the difference between an alarm system speaker and siren?

Image courtesy of Digital Security Controls Ltd. (DSC)

MOTION DETECTOR

A motion detector is a sensor that reacts reacts to changes in the environment within its coverage area.
The passive infrared (PIR) detector shown here is an example of one of the most commonly installed motion detectors.
It monitors the background infrared (heat) signature within its detection area and when a rapid change is detected, combined with movement across the sensor's coverage pattern, it is detected as movement.
To learn more about motion detectors see the following FAQ: What are motion detectors?

Image courtesy of Digital Security Controls Ltd. (DSC)

RJ31X

The RJ31X on the left provides a quick-disconnect between the alarm system and the telephone system and is usually located near the control panel.
This device is required by FCC Regulations Part 68 and must be installed on any home security system that is connected to a Public Switched Telephone Network (PSTN).
To learn more about the RJ31X see the following FAQ: What is an RJ31X, why do I need one and how do I hook it up?

Image courtesy of Leviton

STEEL DOOR MAGNETIC CONTACT

The recessed (flush mounted) 3/4-inch diameter steel door contact pictured on the left with its associated magnet is used on metal clad doors.

Topic: False Alarm Reduction Tips

False Alarms Are A Serious Problem For Everyone!

That bears repeating: False alarms are a serious problem for everyone. 

What is a false alarm?  A false alarm is a notification of an alarm to a law enforcement agency,or other emergency responder, when the responding authority finds no evidence of a criminal offense or emergency at the alarm location.

You may think that false alarms are a concern to only those who subscribe to commercial monitoring services but that is not the case.  This problem does indeed affect everyone, it doesn't matter whether your alarm system is monitored or not, in fact, it doesn't even matter whether you have an alarm system at all.

Facts:

• In 2000 the cost of police dispatch to false alarm activations was estimated to be $ 1.8 billion (yes, that’s billion with a B). ¹

• Between 94 and 98 percent of alarm activations are false alarms.¹

Facts:

• In many areas police response time has slowed, in other areas response can be discretionary or there may be no response at all if the alarm is not verified.

• Some large cities have instituted or are studying "No Response" policies as government attorneys have concluded that the police can legally refuse to respond to alarms.

Some municipalities, faced with these costs and budget constraints, have instituted alarm permitting fees and fines for false alarms. The financial costs are, of course, ultimately borne by every taxpayer. The cost in personal security resulting from a delayed police response to a real emergency affects everyone.

So who is responsible for all these false alarms and what can be done?

Facts:

• User errors account for over 76 percent of false alarms. ²

• Installation problems, equipment failures and environmental factors account for the balance. ²

We'll concentrate on the 76 plus percent here and save the remainder for Part II of this article.  Keypad related errors and user movement after the system is armed account for nearly all user errors.  Let's take a look at a breakdown of these errors:

Keypad Related:

1. Forgotten codes 2. Authorized entry but without a code 3. Error entering code 4. Time lapsed while entering code 5. Time lapsed while exiting 6. Armed, exited and re-entered

User Movement After Arming:

1. Exited while perimeter was armed 2. Set alarm with door ajar or window open 3. User movement in area protected by motion detector 4. Pet movement in area protected by motion detector 5. Other movement in area protected by motion detector (draperies, plants, holiday decorations, etc moved by air currents) 6. Other movement in area protected by motion detector (insects or rodents)

Finally some good news.  As you can see from the foregoing, it's not going to take rocket science to get that false alarm rate down.  All that should be required is spending a few minutes to review the alarm system user guide so you know how to use the system and observing a few simple steps to prevent the occurrence of the common errors listed above.

False alarm prevention tips:

1. Educate yourself and others who use the alarm on its proper operation. 2. Memorize your code and your monitoring company password; do not write them down near the keypad.  If you're having difficulty remembering them, change them (or ask your alarm company to change them) to something you can easily remember. 3. Ensure that everyone that has a key to your home has been instructed on the proper operation of the system, has the code and password, is familiar with alarm cancellation procedures and is on your monitoring company's list of authorized personnel. 4. If you are uncomfortable with the Entry/Exit times and feel rushed, change them or ask your alarm company to change them to allow you sufficient time. 5. Repair any loose fitting windows and doors and make sure they are secure before arming your system. 6. Restrict all access, including pets, to any area with active motion detector protection. 7. Do not place curtains, plants, seasonal decorations, balloons or other objects that might be subject to movement by drafts from fans, heaters or air conditioners in areas with motion detector protection. 8. Test your system each month.  Notify your monitoring company before the test, then test according to manufacturers instructions, notify the monitoring company when the test is completed.  If the system is not operating properly, inform your alarm company. 9. Replace the standby battery or call your alarm company whenever the system indicates battery trouble. 10. Have your alarm company service the system on a regular basis.   

Studies have demonstrated that burglar alarm systems provide a public safety benefit by deterring crime.  According to a recent FBI report, homes without alarm systems are three times more likely to be broken into than homes with alarm systems and when a burglary does occur, losses are substantially less when the home has a security system.  Additionally, an alarm system can provide a sense of security and peace of mind that is invaluable.  However, along with these very significant benefits have come false alarms that waste resources and diminish the effectiveness of the alarm systems.  Unmonitored (local) systems are not exempt; they can cause a false dispatch as neighbors call the police to report the alarm or to complain about the noise.

Do your part to reduce false alarms by being educated on the proper usage of your alarm system.  If you need a manual for your system just let us know.  If you have questions about your system, help is available on the forum, that's what we're all about.  


^{1  Not Calling the Police (First)  Blackstone, Hakim & Spiegel
2  National Study of False Alarms  SIA - STAT Resources}

DSC - HOW TO PROGRAM A DSC SYSTEM – A TUTORIAL

Our goal is to show you how to enter values into the DSC operating system, not to tell you what those values should be (although we will include some examples of values that you may wish to program).  We previously based the instructions on a Power 832/PC 5010, and although the new line of DSC panels is programmed in the same way, there are a few differences. Please note that if you have a system that pre-dates the "Power Series," you will find significant differences from the values discussed here (two-digit section numbers, for example). However, the same programming methods can be applied to any DSC system.  If you have a 5500 keypad, (either the old LCD5500 or the new PK or RFK5500) so much the better, but none of the programming techniques that will be discussed here are keypad-dependent, and programming can be accomplished with any keypad.

Very important: Before you even attempt to begin programming, you should have a programming worksheet in front of you.  With the old systems, the worksheet was a separate document for the 832 and 864, but was contained in the installation manual for the 632. For the new systems, you’ll want the “Power Series Installation Guide,” also referred to as the “Installation Manual” (not the “Quick Install”). This document has the Programming Worksheet in the back. (You should probably avoid the new “Power Series Programming Guide,” a blue-and-white monstrosity that lists all the programming fields using a font that is approximately the size of an amoeba.) Ideally, before you begin programming you'll have the worksheet filled out with the values you wish to use, but even if you don't, the worksheet is an indispensable roadmap that will guide you through the process. It also contains the default values for all the programming fields.

UNDERSTANDING CODES

Although the term "Master Code" sounds impressive, the master code is simply an access code which gives the system owner a little bit more control over the system than he/she would have with an ordinary access code. In order to program the system, however, you'll need to use what is known as the "Installer’s Code."  For the old Power 832/PC 5010, the default Installer's Code is 5010.  But for the old 632, 864, and ALL the new panels, the default Installer’s Code is 5555. You can always find the code in the instruction manual or in the programming worksheet.  For maximum security, it's also recommended that you change the installer's code to one of your own choosing (but different from the master code). However, to avoid confusion, it’s wise to leave the installer’s code alone until everything has been programmed, tested, and is working properly.

LET'S BEGIN

In order to program your system, you must enter what is known as "Installer's Programming".  The command for this is *8; this is followed by the Installer's Code. So to begin programming you'll enter:
*8
Installer’s Code
The “program” light will flash, and the “armed” light will turn on.  This means you are in Installer's Programming, and the system is waiting for you to tell it which section you want to program.
It is DSC’s practice to discuss "keypad programming" as the first order of business in the manuals.  But unless you are dividing your system into two or more partitions (and if you have to ask what that means, then trust me, you are not using partitions), then it is not essential for you to do keypad programming at this time (or perhaps ever).  We can talk about it later, but for right now, it’s quite likely to get you into hot water. So let's get to the good stuff.

Basic System Programming begins with zone definitions. Since the definitions themselves are explained at length in the manuals, I won't bother to go through that here.  So let's say you want to define your Zone No. 1 as an instant zone (which means if that zone is tripped while armed, the system will immediately alarm without any warning).  The zone definition for instant is 03.  The worksheet tells you that the definitions for zones 1 through 8 are programmed in section 001 (the new series of panels contains zones 1 through 16).  So you'll enter
001 (to enter that section).  The “armed” light will turn off; the “ready” light will turn on. Then enter:
03 (the definition for zone 1)
# (to exit section 001)
# (to exit programming completely)
So the entire sequence is:
*8
Installer’s Code
001
03
##
There!  You've just programmed zone 1 as an instant zone.  Now let's go further.  Let's define zone 1 as Instant (03), zone 2 as Delay 1 (01), zone 3 as Delay, stay/away (06), zone 4 as Standard 24-hour fire (08), and zones 5, 6, 7, and 8 as “null” zones (00), which you won’t be using for now. Here goes:
*8
Installer’s Code
001 (the section number)
03    (Instant for zone 1)
01    (Delay1 for zone 2)
06    (Delay, stay/away for zone 3)
08    (Standard 24-hour fire for zone 4)
00    (null for zone 5)
00    (null for zone 6)
00    (null for zone 7)
00    (null for zone 8 )
##
Now you've defined all eight zones. Please note that you must start with zone 1 and proceed in order with the other zones.  There is no way, for example, to just start with zone 5. Notice also that we did NOT enter the zone numbers, just the definitions. The system knows that the first two digits you enter in section 001 will be the definition for zone 1, the next two digits will define zone 2, etc.  Remember, the worksheet shows you the default, or factory, setting for every value.  If you're happy with the way it is, you don't need to change it, but you still need to enter all the zones in order. You should also know that the zone definitions used in our example are not conventional and were chosen for illustrative purposes only. Your zone definitions will be based on the way you want your zones to function in your system. And one more thing: you can exit the section at any time by hitting the # key. In other words, if you aren’t going to enter any more definitions after you’ve finished zone 5, for example, you don’t need to enter zones 6, 7, and 8. Just press # and you’re outta there!

MOVING ON

When you finished programming section 001, you pressed ##. The first # got you out of section 001, and the second # got you out of programming altogether. If you want to continue programming when you finish a section, just use one #, and you can go on to another section.  Let's do section 005 (System Times).

Here there is a small difference between the old and new systems. The new panels allow different timing for each partition, so you must tell the system which partition you are setting up. So, if you are programming a 1616/1832/1864, choose section 005 and enter a two digit number representing the partition; for our purposes, we’ll assume it’s Partition 1 (the only one you are using). Then proceed to the next paragraph. If you are programming one of the old panels, then ignore my previous sentence.

As you see on the worksheet, there are four system times to be programmed: entry delay 1, entry delay 2, exit delay, and bell cut-off. Let's say you are happy with the default values for the last three items, but you want delay 1 to be longer (say 60 seconds). Begin Installer’s Programming, then enter 005 to program the System Times.  Since entry delay 1 is the first item in that section, enter 060 (for 60 seconds), then # to exit that section with the other three values unchanged.  What if you were satisfied with the default values for entry delay 1 and 2, but you wanted to change the exit delay from 120 to 60 seconds?  After entering 005 to go into that section, you have to first enter 030 for entry delay 1, then 045 for entry delay 2 (those are the default values).  Only then could you enter the 060 for exit delay, followed by # to exit. So even though you didn't change the first two items, you still had to enter them before you could get to the third item, just as you did in defining the zones.

How about an example? New system, leaving Delay1 at default of 30 seconds, change Delay2 to 60 seconds, change the Exit Delay to 90 seconds. Here’s how:
*8
Installer’s Code
005   (the programming section)
01     (the partition)  SKIP THIS ENTRY FOR THE OLD SYSTEMS
030   (30 seconds for Delay1)
060   (60 seconds for Delay2)
090   (90 seconds for the Exit Delay)
##     (Exit Programming)


OTHER PROGRAMMING

By now, you should be getting the hang of this "programming" thing.  There is one other type of entry that you need to understand. Look at section 013 in the worksheet.  This section contains the First System Option Code.  There are eight items in this section and each item can be toggled on or off by pressing its number.  Zone numbers 1 through 8 on the keypad display show the current settings for these options.  By default, options 1, 2, 4, 5, and 8 are off.  Options 3, 6, and 7 are on.  If you look at the keypad, only numbers 3, 6, and 7 are on. Let's say you want to use normally closed loops instead of End-Of-Line resistors.  You would want to turn option 1 on, so you would enter 013 to get into that section, then press 1 to toggle option 1 on (the number 1 will turn on).  You can toggle any of the 8 options on or off by simply pressing the corresponding number. This applies to any of the sections where you must turn options on or off, rather than entering values.

When “Keypad Programming” was mentioned earlier, you were told that you could, and probably should, skip it at the beginning (and perhaps forever). Here’s why: keypad programming includes the following items:
    •   Partition and slot assignment
    •   Function key definitions
    •   Zone labels for 5500 keypads
When keypads are installed they assume a default partition and slot assignment. They all default to Partition 1, and unless you are going to divide your system into multiple partitions, that is exactly where you want them (you can’t have zero partitions). As for the slot (a software address that identifies the keypad to the system), LED and 5501 keypads automatically default to slot 1, and 5500 keypads to slot 8. So if you have only one keypad, or one 5500 and one non-5500, the job is done as soon as you power up. If you have more than one keypad of the same kind, you may need to assign them to different slots. This will be the case if you are using the zone terminal on one or more of the keypads (keypad zones), or if you want the keypads to be supervised by the system.

Function keys, likewise, are already programmed by default as “Stay,” “Away,” “Chime,” “Reset,” and “Exit.” Unless you have a specific need for a different function, you needn’t touch that programming.

If you do have a 5500 keypad, you will certainly want to program labels for the zones, and that is the final part of keypad programming.

So the bottom line is this: in most typical residential installations, the keypad programming (except for zone labels) is done automatically. If you aren’t using any keypad zones, there is probably no reason for you to bother with the partition/slot assignment. On the other hand, if you elect to do the keypad programming and aren’t very careful making your entries, you could accidentally assign the keypad in a way that will cause you considerable frustration (see “Why is my keypad dead?”).

CONCLUSION
There are a few other items you may want to program. For example, changing the installer's code (which we discussed earlier) is accomplished in section 006. If your system is not going to be monitored, you should disable TLM (telephone line monitor) in section 015, option 7. If your system is going to be monitored, the central station will no doubt walk you through the values that you have to enter to make it work. But the purpose of this tutorial was to show you how to program, not what to program.  You still have to make the decisions about what you want your system to do and how you want it to act.  But once those decisions are made, you should have an easier time implementing them.

DSC - Why is my keypad dead??

DSC - Can my home security alarm call my cell phone??

Almost all modern alarm systems are designed with one primary purpose in mind: to notify a central monitoring station when an emergency occurs. Virtually no professional installation is done today that does not follow this configuration. A competent do-it-yourselfer does have other options, although the forum's official policy is to recommend that systems be installed and used as the manufacturer intends, namely WITH central station monitoring. That said, if a homeowner does not choose professional monitoring, he/she could:

1. Simply use the system as a local alarm, with a loud siren or bell to scare away intruders and alert neighbors or passersby.

2. Connect a voice dialer that will call several phone numbers and play a voice message.

3. Use the system's dialing capabilities to call a cell phone or pager.

Not all systems allow option #3, but DSC does; that is the focus of this article.

Before providing instructions, it would be irresponsible to not list, as David Letterman would say, "The Top Five Reasons for NOT self-monitoring with a Cell Phone."

5. No matter what wireless companies claim, cell coverage is not perfect. There are still plenty of spots in the good old U.S.of A. where there is NO SIGNAL.

4. Although you may believe that you can ALWAYS hear and answer your phone, the truth is that you probably occasionally take a shower, go swimming, mow your lawn, fly in an airplane, or engage in some other activity that would prevent you from hearing or answering the call.

3. The call to your cell will provide very little information about the nature of the emergency. Although the new DSC dialer format called "Private Line" can tell you, through a series of beeps, which zone has tripped, do you really want to stand there counting nineteen beeps while your house is burning down?

2. If an intruder breaks in while you are home, the system will call your cell, tying up both your land line and your cell line, preventing you from calling for help.

1. If, as in scenario #2, you are asleep when a break-in occurs, your cell phone will ring in a few seconds. Ask yourself what you want to hear on the other end of the line: an operator asking if everything is all right or your alarm system saying beep.......beep......beep......

All right, with that out of way, if you still want to set up your Power Series system for self-monitoring, here's what needs to be done:

**Section 301 - Telephone Number - Place the number of your cell phone here. Be sure to include the area code if your local dialing procedure requires it. The number must be preceded by a HEX D to make the system wait for a dial tone, but you do not need to enter it; it will already be there, so the first digit you enter will be the beginning of your phone number. Likewise, AFTER your number, the remainder of the available 32 digits must be HEX F's, but they too should already be there, so you can simply exit the section with a # when you have entered the number. If, for any reason, the HEX D and F's are not there, please refer to the FAQ "Programming DSC Wireless" for an explanation of HEX entries.

Section 160 (old PowerSeries 632 and 832) or Section 165 (old Power Series 864 and new PowerSeries -1616, 1832, 1864) - Maximum Dialing Attempts - This determines how many times the system will dial if the call is not successful. The old default is 008 (8 attempts), the new default is 005 and cannot be increased. You may decide to simply leave this at default.

Section 161 (old PowerSeries 632, 832) or Section 166 (all others) - Post Dial Wait For Handshake - This determines how long the system waits for an acknowledgement after dialing. The default is 040 (forty seconds) for both old and new Power Series systems.

**Section 310 - Account Code - (Old PowerSeries calls this "Partition 1 Identifier Code") Since the system is not calling a monitoring station, it doesn't matter what digits you enter here, but you do need to enter something (1111 is suggested).

**Section 320 to 323 - Alarm Reporting Codes - (The new PowerSeries, as well as the old 864, has 16 zones in each section. The old 632 and 832 have 8 per section. Check your manual to be sure.) You MUST enter a code for each zone or event that you want to trigger the communicator. Again, since it will not be calling a monitoring station, you can enter any codes you wish (the suggestion is 01 for zone 1, 02 for zone 2, etc.). Remember, a zone that has not been given a reporting code will NOT cause the communicator to dial.

**Section 360 (old 632 and 832) or Section 350 (all others) - Communicator Format Options - This tells the dialer which communication method to use. All PowerSeries panels support Pager Format (05), and most support Residential Dial (06). In addition, the new PowerSeries supports Private Line (09). The installation manuals explain in detail how each of these formats works, so they will not be explained further here. Do not choose any of the other formats; they are designed for central station communications and will result in a trouble condition on your system.

Section 361 (old 632 and 832) or Section 351 (all others) - Communicator Call Directions - This determines which number will be called for alarms in Partition 1 (other partitions will be enabled in other sections; check your manual if you are using more than one partition). The default for all partitions is Telephone Number 1 ON, Telephone Number 2 OFF.

Section 370 (old 632 and 832) or Section 377 (all others) - Communication Variables - You probably won't need to change the defaults for these settings.

Section 380 (all systems) - First Communicator Option Code - Make certain that option 1 (Communications Enabled) is ON!! (The default is ON.)

While this may appear to be a lot of programming, chances are you will only need to enter the telephone number, the account code, the reporting codes and the communicator format to make it work. Everything else is optional and can probably be left at default.